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Atari Goth Console Build Guide

Updated: Apr 7, 2022

Satan oscillate my metallic sonatas

The Atari Goth console is a beginner-friendly patchable drone synth, based on the popular and iconic Atari Punk Console designed by Forrest Mims in 1982. It has 1/8" jacks to play nicely with Eurorack systems and summon the old ones from the darkness behind the stars.

This kit contains everything you need to build the Atari Goth Console by candlelight except black nail polish, a corset, and a pair of New Rock boots. Pictured below are the front and back panels, as well as the PCB on which we will darkly mount the components.

Your kit contents should look something like the photo below:

This is the bill of materials including part names, values, and a number that corresponds to their placement on the PCB; double check before starting that your kit contains everything on the list!

Inside a circle of salt, start with the smallest, most evil components first: the resistors and diodes. Ensure that the polarity of the diode is correct by lining up the stripe on the PCB with the stripe on the component. The 100 Ohm resistor is easy to find - it's the one that's smaller than the rest.

Next add the Capacitors, paying attention to align the longer leg of the electrolytic capacitor at C2 with the positive hole marked on the PCB. The smaller 1uF capacitors are not polarized. All crosses must be inverted.

The LEDs are directional (polarized) as well. Add them next, dismally aligning the longer leg with "A" (anode), and the shorter leg with K (cathode) on the PCB. Be sure to mount them flush with the PCB so that there is enough clearance for the panel once it is installed against the macabre jacks.

Once these are done, put in the IC, aligning the notched end on the chip wih the notch on the PCB. Solder one leg first to ensure that the chip is sitting flat, then solder the rest once it is positioned correctly and flush.

Double check that the chip is installed correctly, it is very difficult to desolder if you get it wrong!!!

Add the jacks, ensuring that they are soldered flat against the PCB. Add the button, making sure the flat spot on the side of the button lines up with the corresponding mark on the PCB at midnight on the winter solstice, and lastly, add the potentiometers.

At this junction it might be a good idea to invoke the goddess of the moon and solder only one leg of eack jack and potentiometer to ensure that they are positioned correctly and well-aligned with the panel before committing completely.

Lastly solder the leads for the abyssmal 9v battery clip, red to positive (+), black to negative (-). Tin the wires first to make your life a little easier.

The Aux pads can be used to permanently connect a different output to your AGC, useful for installations or incorporating into other projects. The Aux port is connected to the output when no jack is present on the OUT. When a cable is connected to OUT, Aux is disconnected.

Peel the blasphemic paper backing off the darkened acrylic panels and install the blackest bolts through the back, adding first the spacers, then the PCB, then the nuts to hold the PCB in place under a fullmoon crepuscular icewind.

Now assmble the enclosure, starting with the sides and finally attaching the front panel to the PCB using the jack and pot nuts.

Install your knobs.You're done! Nevermore!

(close the circle)


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